I’m surprised that Spanish cooking remains so unfamiliar to most of us. It can’t be the ingredients or flavors. So much of Spain’s cuisine relies on olive oil, garlic, onions, tomatoes, peppers, ham, sausage and seafood–the same things we love about Italian food.
The best way I know to develop a love for Spanish food is to make paella, a main-course rice pilaf generously studded with seafood, poultry or meat. Paella, which takes its name from the shallow pan, or paellera, in which it is traditionally cooked, abounds in wonderfully aromatic flavors, including saffron, the rare spice that gives the dish its bright golden color and delicious perfume.
“But paella is so complicated and time-consuming,” I can hear some cooks complaining. Such misconceptions come only from people who haven’t tried to make it, particularly in the simplified yet authentic version here. Paella becomes even quicker with a pressure cooker.
Successful paella starts with the rice. Spanish cooks typically use a plump medium-grain variety similar to the kind featured in Italian risotto, but I find it’s easier for busy cooks to get good, fast results using long-grain rice.
Paella calls for big flavors. Many cooks err in under-seasoning, failing to consider how much the rice’s volume expands during cooking. I use generous amounts of garlic, onion and bell pepper, which I saute in olive oil to enhance their flavor. I also make sure to coat the rice with the oil before adding liquid, so the grains stay separate.
As for the saffron, you’ll find jars or packets containing dried threads of the spice in the seasonings section of well-stocked markets. Don’t be alarmed by the price or by how little you get, because just a pinch provides a happy explosion of flavor, aroma and color.
My version of paella features fresh seafood–shrimp, mussels and clams–and bright-green baby peas, available frozen. You can vary the recipe easily, adding chopped tomato and complementing or replacing the seafood with scallops, bite-sized chunks of sauteed sausage, smoked ham or boneless and skinless chicken. Just remember, any proteins you add have to be in pieces small enough to cook as quickly as the rice.
The variety this paella offers doesn’t end at one meal. Make an extra-large batch and refrigerate the leftovers. The next day, toss the cold paella with a little vinaigrette dressing (use Spanish sherry vinegar, if you like) and chopped fresh herbs, spoon it onto beds of lettuce leaves, and enjoy a lunch every bit as flavorful as the previous night’s dinner.
Easy paella
Preparation time: 45 minutes
Cooking time: 20 minutes
Yield: 6 servings
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded, finely chopped
2 1/2 cups long-grain white rice
2 large cloves garlic, minced
1/2 teaspoon saffron threads, slightly crushed
2 cans (14 1/2 ounces each) chicken broth
3/4 cup dry white wine
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup frozen small peas
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley plus more for garnish
1/8 teaspoon ground red pepper
Freshly ground black pepper
12 large shrimp, peeled, deveined
12 each, scrubbed: small fresh clams, fresh mussels
1. Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat; add the onion and bell pepper. Cook, stirring, until the onion starts to become translucent, about 3 minutes. Stir in the rice, garlic and saffron; cook, stirring, until garlic is fragrant and the rice is evenly coated with oil, about 3 minutes. Stir in the broth, wine and salt. Increase the heat to high; heat to a boil. Add parsley and red and black pepper to taste.
2. Reduce the heat to a simmer; cover. Cook until all the liquid has evaporated and the rice is almost tender, 10 minutes. Add the shrimp, clams and mussels; cover. Cook until shellfish open and shrimp turns pink, about 5 minutes.
3. Stir to distribute the ingredients evenly. Spoon into shallow serving bowls or plates; garnish with parsley.
Nutrition information per serving:
445 calories, 14% of calories from fat, 7 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 41 mg cholesterol, 75 g carbohydrates, 18 g protein, 926 mg sodium, 3 g fiber
