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THE BERGHOFF, 17 W. Adams St., 427-3170. The food here may not ring any bells, but the oak-paneled restaurant with its old-time waiters is pure Chicago. Recommended dishes: fresh oysters, schnitzel, rib roast, steak, Black Forest cake. Hours: 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Mon.-Thurs., 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Fri. and Sat. Closed on Sun. Price range: moderately expensive. Credit Cards: A, M, V. Reservations: accepted for parties of 5 or more. (PAC)

GOLDEN OX, 1578 N. Clybourn Ave., 664-0780. German. This 60-year-old Chicago favorite has survived urban renewal to continue its tradition of fine fresh food in a restrained but genuine gemutlich setting. The food is typically German: Hearty, heavy, predictable and thoroughly enjoyable. Recommended: Hackepeter, appetizer platter, braised oxtails, zwiebelfleisch, Frederick veal, hasenpfeffer, cherry strudel. Hours: 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Mon.-Fri., 11 a.m.-11:30 p.m. Sat., 3-8 p.m. Sun. Price range: Moderately expensive. Credit cards: A, C, D, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. (MK)

IGNATZ AND MARY`S GROVE INN, 3555 Milwaukee Ave., Northbrook, 824-7141. Ignatz and Mary retired in 1973 after 28 years of ownership, but daughter Margaret and her husband, Fritz Miller, carry on the tradition of hearty, voluminous German cuisine. Recommended: Weiner schnitzel, roast goose

(seasonal), potato pancakes, strawberry-shubarb pie. Hours: 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Mon. and Wed.-Fri., 11 a.m.-11:30 p.m. Sat., 11:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Sun. Closed Tues. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: A, C, D, M, V. Reservations: Accepted for four or more. (Staff)

SCHULIEN`S, 2100 W. Irving Park Rd., 478-2100. German/American. The oldest continually operated restaurant and saloon in Chicago, Schulien`s features lots of wood and leaded glass, card tricks and a refreshing measure of good old hospitality. Recommended: Beef sandwiches, onion soup, whitefish, wiener schnitzel. Hours: lunch 11:30 a.m.-4 p.m., dinner 4 p.m.-midnight Mon.- Thurs., to 1 a.m. Fri. and Sat.; closed Sun. and holidays. Price range:

Moderate. Credit cards: A, M, V. Reservations: Accepted Mon.-Thurs. only.

(PAC)

ZUM DEUTSCHEN ECK, 2924 N. Southport, 525-8389. German. For many years the home of Chicago`s most overwhelming gemutlichkeit, this huge ”chalet”

fell into hard times a few years ago. Now it`s coming back, and the food working its way back to higher standards. But desserts still lack imagination. Entertainment weekends. Recommended: Teufel salad, Suelze, Hasenpfeffer, Schweins Haxen, Wiener Schnitzel. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-Midnight Mon.-Thurs., 11:30 a.m.-2 a.m. Fri., Noon-2 a.m. Sat., Noon-Midnight Sun. Price range:

moderate. Credit cards: A, C, D, M, V. (Staff)